Posté le 07/02/2016 at 18:11

Elvira : Rebuilding the 36hp, part 3 : Closing the engine

part 3 : Closing up the engine case
QUATRE ANS! Quatre ans que j'attendais que les astres s'alignent pour le fermer ce bloc! E N F I N !!!

Carter moteur

Contrairement à ce que j'annonçais dans mon précédent post (en mars 2012...) sur le sujet, la métrologie du bloc n'était en fait pas si bonne.
En la reprenant à tête reposée avec mon nouveau matériel, je me suis aperçu que les paliers vilo étaient hors-cote ovalisation. Pas de beaucoup, mais j'allais pas remonter le carter comme ça, avec toutes les pièces que j'ai, c'aurait été du gâchis : Bielles NOS, axes de pistons NOS, coussinets de vilo NOS, coussinets de bielles NOS, tubes enveloppes NOS, tôles sous cylindres NOS (!), AAC "Okrasa" Joe Ruiz...

Du coup, j'ai envoyé le bloc chez Feller pour une ligne d'arbre en +0.5mm. Et là, il m'a fallu trouver des coussinets en cote réparation (dommage, j'avais des NOS VW en cote origine dans leur boite!)... Pas évident pour les pieds moulés! Classic-Store en a en stock, mais de piètre qualité (Sintermetal, fabriqué en Argentine), même eux recommandent de ne pas monter ça! ("mais ils ont le mérite d'exister")

Après 18 mois de recherches, je les ai finalement trouvés en Allemagne. NOS VW, 150€ le jeu hors port (ouch!), mais bon, pas vraiment le choix... On est déjà fin 2013, et entre-temps je me suis lancé sur le moteur du KG. Le pied moulé a alors sagement attendu sur son étagère...
Mais c'est fini, il est temps de refermer le bébé! icone smiley laugh

Janvier 2016, je vais chez Laurent (Dangerous - merci ma caille!) fermer le bloc : il a plus l'habitude que moi, et on sera pas trop de 2 cerveaux pour tout vérifier au montage. Ce qui ne nous empêchera pas d'oublier la tôle sous cylindre au culassage ceci dit... icone smiley laugh
Ca veut dire aussi un peu moins de photos étape-par-étape, conditions d'éclairage pas idéales dans son atelier.

Mais avant d'oublier, je replace les petites plaques de guidage des poussoirs (qui ont un méplat et ne tournent pas sur pied moulé). Serrage léger avec une goutte de frein filet, et je replie la patte de blocage sur l'écrou. Ca se fait un peu au feeling, le poussoir doit coulisser gras avec un très léger jeu.
Dans la foulée, je reprends la galerie sur le palier N°3 : sur les pieds moulés, le passage d'huile est usiné dans le bloc au lieu du coussinet, et le ré-usinage de la ligne d'arbre l'a sérieusement réduit. Je l'approfondis un peu à la Dremel, sur les deux demi-carters.

Bielles

Les bielles NOS sont d'abord mises au poids, dégrossissage à la meuleuse pneumatique, et finition à la lime électrique : j'ai 0.7g d'écart entre le plus lourde et la plus légère.
Leurs coussinets (NOS eux aussi) sont déglacés avec un bout de tampon Jex usé (à l'huile), installés, et le jeu avec le maneton de vilo vérifiés au Plastiguage.
Le vilebrequin est d'abord rhabillé avec les pignons AAC et allumeur, puis les bielles sont montées dessus, serrées au couple à 5mkg (dixit la RTA et la revue d'atelier, surprenant : 3.5mkg sur T1!), et dé-stressées (petit coup de marteau avec un jet en bronze pour libérer les contraintes liées au serrage).
Au montage, je lubrifie les manetons au Wynn's Supercharge, pour assurer la lubrification lors du montage et jusqu'au premier démarrage. Comme c'est très visqueux et collant, ça ne se fera pas la malle comme de l'huile...

Cylindres / Pistons

Les têtes de pistons sont passées au marbre : polissage pour limiter le transfert de chaleur.

Les cylindres ont été contrôlés en même temps que les pistons : tout est dans les cotes. Clairement le kit n'a que très peu roulé : perso j'ai du faire 2000km max avec ce moteur, je suppose que les chemises/pistons avaient été montés neuf dessus.
Bref, les cylindres sont simplement nettoyés et déglacés (honage), et sont déclarés bon pour le service.

Les pistons sont gentiment préparés : un petit chanfrein sur le bas de la jupe (à la lime electrique : super outil, il m'en faut une!) pour aider la création du film d'huile, angle cassé à la tête (doucement au papier de verre 800), et mise au poids (pas évident, 2 fonderies différentes, j'ai du me résigner à avoir deux plus lourds et deux plus légers, chaque couple mis en opposition 2 à 2).

Je contrôle derrière le jeu à la coupe des segments : la RTA donne entre 0.35 et 0.62, j'ai 0.35 serré sur les 8 segments d'étanchéité, parfait. Je les monte en y allant doucement sur la pince à segments, et en huilant tout bien ; on vérifie bien que l'inscription "top" est vers le haut, on tierce en tenant compte de l'orientation vers le VM (deux ouvertures du segment racleur en haut, décalées de 45°, deux ouvertures segments d'étanchéité en bas à 120°).

Finalement, les pistons sont emmanchés dans leur cylindre respectif avec un compresseur de segments, et beaucoup d'huile.

Culasses

Beaucoup de travail sur les culasses que j'avais trouvées à Valence...
Après un nettoyage en règle à l'essence F, je les ai microbillées pour y voir clair. Pas de mauvaises surprises, un micro-bout d'ailette cassé, rien de méchant ; et surtout, aucune fissure. Banco! ("je l'entends encore... Banco..." : un cookie pour celui qui capte la référence).
A propos : il vaut mieux boucher les guides de soupape pour le micro-billage : un bon plan pour ça, c'est les bouchons d'oreille jetables en mousse! icone smiley wink
Elles sont propres, mais bon... Il y a matière à améliorer les choses. C'est pas un foudre de guerre le pied-moul' d'origine, s'il y a un cheval à grappiller par-ci par-là, faut pas s'en priver. Et les culasses sur un moteur VW, c'est le nerf de la guerre...

Alors on se retrousse les manches et on y va!
Pour commencer, les sièges de soupapes sont retouchés trois angles pour améliorer le flux (il y a une vilaine marche d'origine) : faut y aller tout doux, y'a pas beaucoup de viande pour travailler.

Ensuite, les soupapes sont nettoyées et légèrement modifiées : montées sur une perceuse à colonne, et retouchées à la lime électrique. Lissage, la tête un peu diminuée pour retirer le bossage... Le but est toujours d'améliorer le flux ; tout doux encore, y'a pas beaucoup de matière.
Les soupapes sont rodées sur leurs sièges, et les demi-clavettes de queues de soupapes réduites (au niveau du plan de contact, pour bien plaquer sur la soupape ; les clavettes se touchaient et du coup avaient du jeu sur la soupape).
Puis les conduits sont légèrement repris, pour retirer les marches, marques de fonderies, alignement siège/conduit, etc... Dremel et fraiseuse pneumatique, et on lisse tout ça.

Ensuite : d'origine, le rapport volumétrique était de 6.6 (d'après la RTA), ce qui était ok avec les carburants des années 60, mais franchement dépassé avec notre Super 98 : un 8.5 serait mieux, pas de risque de cliquetis, plus de watts et meilleur rendement.

Je mesure donc mon deck height (0.88mm) et le volume de chambre d'origine (48.75cm3) : je tombe sur un RV à 6.64, ce qui correspond bien à ce qu'annonce la RTA.
Pour augmenter ce RV, pas 36 solutions, faut diminuer le volume de la chambre de combustion, et pour ça descendre le fût de cylindre dans la culasse, en vérifiant régulièrement le volume obtenu, et recalculant le RV (à ce propos, il y a une super calculette sur F4E pour ça...).
Entre le centrage au comparateur, le réglage de la tête (automatique, bel outil), les mesures régulières, c'est un jour et demi de travail qui y sont passés.
Au final, en descendant de 3.2mm, on est arrivés à 35.6cm3 de volume de chambre, et donc un RV de 8.51. Woohoo!
Même punition pour l'autre culasse, descendue de 3.15mm pour avoir les mêmes chambres.
Evidemment, avant de se lancer dans cette modif, il faut vérifier la levée des soupapes pour ne pas qu'elles touchent les pistons à pleine levée... Dans mon cas pas de soucis, il doit bien me rester 5mm, je suis large.

Sauf que maintenant, les fûts de cylindres ne touchent plus au fond de la chambre, mais en haut sur la première ailette de la culasse ; on sort donc la "bête à corne" et on rabote de 1.2mm, jusqu'à ce que les cylindres plaquent bien au fond des chambres (on vérifie avec un jeu de cale, 0.2mm de jeu entre cylindre et culasse, tout va bien!).
Par contre, sur la culasse droite (cylindres 1 & 2), j'ai l'ailette qui est devenue vraiment fine, façon lame de couteau... Pas top, mais bon. Je vivrai avec.

Finalement les chambres sont légèrement retouchées à la Dremel pour supprimer les angles vifs que l'usinage a créés (sources de points de chauffe et de cliquetis), et ça y est, elles sont prêtes à monter!
Ouf... Tout ça pour ça! icone smiley wink
Sur ces photos, on voit un effet de "vaguelettes" sur la culasse après usinage : l'ailette commençait à devenir un peu fine et se mettait à vibrer sous l'outil se la fraiseuse.

C'est bien beau tout ça, mais du coup le moteur est plus court de 3.2mm de chaque coté! Il faudra donc retailler les tiges de poussoirs pour prendre en compte cette réduction, sinon la géométrie de la culbuterie sera dans le sac... Mais ça, ça peut attendre pour le moment, je reviendrai dessus plus tard.

Pompe à huile

Le couvercle de pompe à huile était bien marqué... Je l'ai plané sur marbre au papier verre à l'huile pour lui virer ces marques vilaines d'usure.
Le corps de la pompe à huile est microbillé, son tenon meulé pour éviter toute interaction avec l'AAC, et ses conduits alignés avec ceux du bloc. La face est légèrement planée aussi, juste pour virer les traces d'oxidation, elle était propre.
Bonne pour le service!

Fermeture du bloc

Pour bosser propre, j'avais déjà microbillé toute la visserie (ouais, je vais me faire un T-Shirt "I ? microbilleuz"), et j'ai passée tout ce p'tit monde au taraud/filière. Les goujons de culasses ont été décapés (au tour, ça va vite), passés à la filière, et peints pour éviter la rouille (dans la famille Overkill je voudrais le fils).
Je n'ai pas fait beaucoup de photos de l'assemblage, il commençait à se faire tard et il fallait boucler...

On prépare donc la fermeture :
  • Pour l'étanchéité, le plan de joint d'un demi-carter est enduit de pâte anaérobie Loctite 518. Super produit : on peut prendre son temps pour travailler (elle ne sèche pas à l'air), elle est miscible dans l'huile (pas de risques de bouchage de galeries comme avec les pâtes silicone)... et j'adore son odeur!
  • Les coussinets vilo, et les paliers arbre à cames (pas de coussinets AAC sur pied-moulé) sont copieusement lubrifiés à la Wynn's Supercharge.
  • Les cames de l'arbre à cames reçoivent une couche de ZDDP ; un peu overkill encore au vu des ressorts, mais bon, tant que j'y suis...
  • Le bas des cylindres reçoit un petit congé de CAF ; idem pour les joints des tubes enveloppe.
  • Les écrous et rondelles de culasse qui se trouvent sous le cache-culbuteurs reçoivent une couche de 518 aussi, pour éviter les fuites d'huile par les filetages.
  • Les tubes enveloppe NOS (merci VW Classic via Slide Perf/Classic Store : 8,30€ pièce, ça pique, mais belle came) sont dégraissés et prennent une fine couche de peinture haute température couleur alu, histoire qu'ils ne rouillent pas direct.
  • Les tôles sous cylindres sont NOS aussi...

On vérifie une dernière fois, on inspire un grand coup, et y'a plus qu'à refermer :
Et.... Taadaaaaaa!! icone smiley laugh

Bon, on n'est pas encore sur la route hein, mais c'est une bonne étape de franchie!
La suite bientôt!
Posté dans : 1959 Beetle
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Posté le 18/12/2014 at 23:07

Workshop Update : Sambre-et-Meuse Vise

When I build my workbench three years ago, I needed a vise, and resolved myself into buying one from the hardware store, a chinese thingy made out of extruded shitonium ©.

Poorly cast iron, with many casting defects filled with bondo, with a nice paint to cover the crime... As you can guess, all of this is going away the first time you use a blowtorch or a hammer.
The "mechanical" part is no better, the screw is made of lower-grade steel (the kind of steel used to shoe rabbits, as we say in french), the nut is tiny, secured only with a 4mm screw that broke on first use...
Pictures are worth a thousand words they say, here's what the beast looks like after only 3 years of occasional, osft & gentle usage. I does not even work anymore, the threading in the nut is mostly gone, one as to apply quite a lot of torque to actually tighten the vise, and if you tight it a too manly, the threads just "skip".. Pure bliss.
But this was BEFORE. icone smiley laugh

Found on LeBonCoin (our french equivalent of Craigslist), for merely the same price I paid for the shity chinese thing, a beautifully restored "Sambre et Meuse"!
For those of you who don't know about that brand, Sambre et Meuse is a steelworks company, founded in the early 40's, that produced this kind of tools until 2009 (when they sold that branch of their activity to Dolex). The company still exists today, their main activity being large steel castings for train industry.
These vises are well known upon machinists for being sor of the "Rolls" of them all, dating back from an era when we had a flourishing industry in France, producing high quality stuff...

My new vise ain't perfect, with a few saw marks on the jaws, but it's very clean for a tool that's probably around 40 years old. It's completely made out of steel (all 14kg of it), and turns with the slightest push of a finger!

Its previous owner lives more than 2 hours drving from my place, so thank you Thierry for picking it up for me while I was arranging logistics! icone smiley wink
Anyway, my point is : if on a garage sale you were ever to find a "Sambre et Meuse", make sure you don't miss that oportunity ; they don't make'em like that anymore!
Posté dans : Workshop
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Posté le 30/06/2014 at 22:41

Kitty Injection : Engine : 1776 part. 2

Here's an article that took its sweet time before publishing... Anyway, things are going forward - slowly, but still forward!


Crankcase

I kept working on the case :
  • All edges are smoothed,
  • Casting marks are removed,
  • The ventilation holes between cylinders 1&2 / 3&4 are widened (the three fingers rule!) and smoothed,
  • the oil return hole at the bottom of the partition with the distribution gears is enlarged,
  • the ventilation above the central bearing is enlarged.
It may not look like much, but there's already quite a few hours of Dremel-ing to get there!

The global idea is twofold : first, enhance the air flow inside the crankcase to avoid over-pressure, second, ease the return of the oil to the bottom of the case, in order for it to go back in the oil circuit (the oil remaining on the inner faces of the case is useless!).
Smoothing the edges also helps preventing concentration of constraints in the material, and the cracks that could result from them. Well, to be honest, I'm not really too concerned about that on my little 1776! icone smiley laugh

As a comparison, here is one of the ventilation ports before smoothing... icone smiley wink
As per the tools I use, it's first a pneumatic grinder with carbide bits to quickly remove material, then Dremel and its accessories (sanding cylinder, miscellaneous grinding stones...) to refine, and finally 120/180 grit sand paper for a final smoothing.
For the case's exterior finish, I used a fine rotary abrasive brush (on the pneumatic grinder, this baby gotta turn fast!). The objective was just to remove the oxidization and remaining muck after its previouss chemical cleansing...


Berg Conversion

I had my mind set onto using head washers an nuts around the case ("Gary Berg conversion") : the thick washers (4mm) and the 15mm nuts allow a tighter torquing of the case perimeter (2.7mkg instead of the origin 2mkg), leading to a more rigid crankcase.
But to do so, one needs first to spot face the case for the washers to lay flat on the material... As I did not really want to go ask pay a professional machinist to make that modification, and since I'm kinda stubborn (icone smiley laugh), I found a way to make it myself.
In order to do so, you would first need the right tool, a 22mm counterboring bit with a 8mm pilot tip (actually fellow enthousiast KY260, advised that Ø23mm is even better, as the washer may be a bit tight with 22mm). Not an easy to find tool, but I finally found it on eBay : a set of 23mm cutters, with two CM3 tool holders and 4 14.4mm pilot tips. At 44€, that was a steal! icone smiley wink
As I don't have a mill, I want to use that tool with my drill press ; in order to do so, I lathed down one of the CM3 tool holders to give it a cylindrical end instead of the conical morse one. I also lathed one of the pilot tips down to 8.5mm (that hardened steel was very, very hard to lathe!).
Finally, I have the correct tooling, let's give it a shot!
Before I actually modify my crankcase, I did make a few tests on my former, out-of-tolerances case, just to validate the process first. Finally, I found a way to do it, by clamping my drill press down on the bench, turning the drill press head backwards to get enough height, and drilling slowly... I know my assembly will make any proper machinist shiver, but the resulting spot faced areas are really nice and flat and perpendicular : process validity checked! icone smiley wink

So, here we go now, same procedure on my actual case. It's actually quite a quick process, except the ones below the case ; some Dremel work was required to free the way for the cutter.


Unpluging the oil galleries

In order to thoroughly clean the oil galleries, and by doing so avoid that some gunk would screw up all the nice work do so far upon engine's first start, you must un-plug the galleries. The operation isn't that difficult if you're careful : first center-punch the plug, then drill it with a 3mm drill bit ; then force-screw a sheet metal screw in that hole, and pull on it with an inertia hammer.
Since I did not have an actual inertia hammer, I thew one together with what was available around the workbench... I'm actually pretty happy of that recycling of an old rear-drum 36mm nut. icone smiley laugh
If you give this modification a shot, here are the plugs you'll need to pull (circled in blue) ; there are 10 of them, but I'll pug back only 9, the last one being the full-flow input.
The plug on the side of the case (right below and between the cylinders 3 and 4) is drilled to a 8.5mm diameter, all the way down (around 67mm, down to right behind the central camshaft bearing), to enhance the oil flow in the right half of the case. With a sharp drill bit, turning fast, going in slowly as to keep the bit from "screwing" into the material, that's quite an easy thing to do (back up often to get the shavings out).


Cleaning and plugging back the galleries

So, now that the galleries are un-plugged, it's time to clean them, and find a way to plug them back after!

Here's the tools of the trade for these two steps...
I ordered plugs from Torques.co.uk (great address I already got fuel fittings from). These are conical NPT 1/8"x27, 1/4"x18 and 3/8"x18. They are anodized aluminium, really nice products ; to be installed with Loctite 577 pipe sealant ; make sure you have the imperial size Allen wrenches to tighten them in!

As for the cleaning of the galleries, any means are good. Myself, I'm first using the compressed air to get rid of as much shavings and dust as possible ; then bottle brushes, shotgun brushes and pipe-cleaning brushes... And lots of brake cleaning fluid ; some WD40 can be used too, to help removing any hardened oil sticking in the nooks and crannies.
To make it a bit easier, I like to mount the bottle/riffle brushes on my cordless electric drill, and then go back and forth in the galleries while turning full speed ; that's the way to go, galleries end up all nice and shiny! (sorry, no picture about it, I could not manage to get a proper picture inside the oil gallery)
Next, taping the plugs holes... This operation produces a lot of shavings and dust, so make sure you wait till you've finish this step before actually doing your final cleaning of the galleries!

Prior to taping, you first need to drill the holes : here are the drill bits sizes you'll need for that :
  • 1/8" plug : 8,5mm drill bit (11/32"), going 15 mm deep
  • 1/4" plug : 11mm drill bit (7/16" ), going 26 mm deep
  • 3/8" plug : 14,5mm drill bit (37/64" or 9/16"), going 25 mm deep
Drilling depths are just given as an indication ; they totally depend on your taps and plugs, so don't take my word for it and make your own trials! icone smiley wink

You need to be cautious while taping, as it's conical. As per the depth, you need to go little by little : tap a little, test fit the plug, tap a bit more, test fit the plug, et cætera until the plug sits flush with the case when tighten. To make it easier/faster, once the first plug of a given size is tapped, I make a mark on the tap for the next ones! (see previous picture, red marker stripe on the tap)
The gallery on the output side of the oil pump needs to be plugged as well. The pump itself is already tapped, but plugging the gallery too will prevent oil pressure from coming back in this gallery, causing leaks and/or oil going back in the case instead of the circuit. I put that plug deep into the gallery, that should help avoiding gunk and debris from stocking up in that dead-end part of the oil circuit.
So here we go gain, NPT 1/4"x18 tap, directly in the gallery without any prior drilling (inside diameter is correct). Half a turn ahead, quarter turn back to get shavings ou, and repeat... The plug will be tightened in the gallery with its dose of Loctite 577 pipe sealant again.


Camshaft

Out of the box, the cams edges are razor sharp, which may damage the lifters upon engine's first start. So I lightly smooth them down with my Dremel and a sanding drum. It doesn't need much, just smoothing down that angle a bit ; I finish it off with some 600 grit sandpaper with a drop of oil.
The journals are polished with some 2000 grit sand paper (a worn-out ScotchBrite pad would work too), to remove any imperfection and promote the oil film. If you use sand paper though, make sure you thoroughly clean the part after, as grit particles may get embedded in the material (well, that's more true about the soft material of bearings han the hard steel of the journals!).
Assembling the driving gear : the screws delivered with the camshaft have a ring protruding on top of them, which may interfere with the back of the oil pump. Since that ring does not bring anything in terms of resistance to the screws, I lathe it down (well, a file would have done the trick too!).
Finally, a thorough cleaning/degreasing of all the parts (brakes cleaning fluid, acetone), and assembly, torquing the screws at 25nm, with a drop of Loctite threadlock (the stronger, red one - you really don't want these to get loose!). The notch in the camshaft (that drives the oil pump) has to be aligned with the mark on the gear.
I give the whole thing a thin coat of WD40 to prevent any oxidization, and I put it aside, in a clean protective plastic bag.


Oil pump

The oil pump is a modified model, prepped by Feller Service (a french perf shop) : it's a Shadek 26mm base, machined to add a couple of O-rings around it (to prevent leaks and cavitation). The pump body and gears are rectified so that the gears are perfectly flush with the body (checked with my trustful rectified ruler).
The output is already plugged, with the full-flow output on the anodized black, CNC aluminium cover (tastefully engraved with the name of my fav parts dealer! icone smiley laugh).
More information about this pump on Feller's blog (in french only I'm afraid) ; actually if you give it a close look, my pump cover is somewhere on the last picture, on the right hand side... icone smiley laugh
Anyway, here's a really nice, highly recommended product, and made in France for once!
Still, I make a couple of modifications on it : first, the tear drop shaped input as recommended by Berg, so that the oil arrives nicely all along the gear. I also slightly grind down the rear protruding tenon, to make sure it won't interfere with the camshaft screws.
The oil inlet port is aligned with the gallery on the case (see this post by PanelVan) ; I was luck, I had less than half a millimeter gap, so a light Dremel sanding drum touch in the pump body was enough to align it perfectly.
And that's it, enough for the oil pump, it's ready to install!

To be continued soon!
Posté dans : 1968 Karmann Ghia
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Posté le 01/06/2014 at 21:28

NYC 3

I've just figured that I had not published this post... icone smiley laugh
So very, very, very late indeed, here's a few pictures from my 3rd trip to NYC... Enjoy! icone smiley wink
Posté dans : New York
Affiché 112482 fois.
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Posté le 01/04/2014 at 23:48

Workshop : Floor Upgrade!

"Small" upgrade of my workshop...
First, I managed to get myself a second garage, next to the first one. Well, not exactly next to, so I can't just remove the wall between'em, but close enough. Not a perfect situation, but better than nothing.

Next, I had an opportunity for bargain priced floor tiles (thanks a lot to my buddy Dangerous for this, and lending me his Type 2 to transport everything!), so here we go : let's tile them garages!
So, I have two garages, 17m² (183ft²) a piece, so a total of 34m² (366 ft²) ; I got myself 40m² (430ft²) worth of tiles, just to have some room to deal with cuts and broken ones.

These tiles are 50x50cm (20"x20"), solid porcelain stoneware, 9.5mm thick, anti-slip texture : 27 packs of them, 27.7kg each, so almost 750kg to move... Meh, I'll just get my spine replaced after this one. icone smiley laughicone smiley laugh
Note : for you to imagine the 30km trip with the Bay Window Type 2, packed with 750kg of tiles, in winter, under heavy rain (orange weather forecast flood alert), without any heating (so windows wide open to get rid on the condensation, so in rained an much inside as it did outside!), with a fire extinguisher at my feet "jus in case because I have a leaky fuel pipe", and the obviously vintage braking system, I suggest you watch again the classic movie "The Wages of Fear" (1953). icone smiley laugh

Why tiles in a garage?

To answer shortly : way easier to clean, a quick sweep and it's clean.

I was rather happy about my floor paint, after 3 years of use : it resisted quite well, only a couple of compounds manage to dissolve the paint if let too long in contact (mainly braking fluid and aceton).
But my floor isn't perfectly flat : the concrete slab had originally been indented with a spiked roller to make it non-slip, and even though I had used a concrete grinder to smooth the surface (see this article), it's still full of small holes that keep gather dirt. Impossible to keep it actually clean. icone smiley sad

And for those of you who think : "yeah, but if you drop a tool, your tiles gonna break!" : well, I know a tiled car body shop, they have tools falling everyday, and they even hammer form sheet metal on the floor tiles! So, no, I'm not too concerned about solidity! icone smiley laugh
And if I happened to break a tile, I have quite a few in advance, I'll just replace it with a new one...

First garage

OK, here we go!
First step : empty the whole garage to be able to tile : in itself, it's already a heavy project, fitting in one garage what usually fits in two... It's like playing a life-size Tetris.
Next, carefully preparing the floor : sweeping, vacuum, complete washing/rincing using "St. Marc" washing soda, and a coat of primer to make sure the tile adhesive sticks to the substrate. Then, tiling using "Parexlanko" tile adhesive (spread with a 9mm toothed applicator, using the double-gluing technique on the back of the tiles, important for solidity), and water-repellent sealing comound from the same brand. Nice products, I would use th same with no hesitation ; a total of almost 3 bags of 25kg of adhesive per garage were used, so it's another 150kg to transport... Plus 25kg of sealing compound for both garages...
As expected, the walls aren't straight, so I tile everything perpendicular to the garage entrance (if you ever so such a job, take your sweet time at the beginning to make sure you start square, Pythagoras is your friend here!). A world of thanks to my buddy Flo here for lending a hand!
I finish it up ith a stripe of grey paint at the bottom of the wall, to keep it clean when I sweep the floor (and cover the stains made by the sealing compound). Another solution would have been to make "skirting boards" out of the remaining tiles, but the added thickness would have been in the way when I install my shelves.

So, first garage done ; this one will be mainly used for storage, so I install there all my shelves. And since I scored on LeBonCoin (the french equivalent of Craig's List - that was a steal!) a set of really sturdy boxes that neatly fit in the shelves, I'll finally be able to sort out my mess stock!! icone smiley laugh

Second Garage

One down, one to go. Heads up, we're only half way!...
This one begins with moving the 350kg of my lathe (which almost fell on me this time, thanks Xavier for your help!). icone smiley sad
Next is exactly the same procedure as for the first garage, deep cleaning and priming the floor (primer is mandatory to install tiles on a painted floor), and finally tiling :
And two down! Done! PHEW! I had under estimated the amount for work tiling such a surface would be!

These small things that make your life easier...

In the first garage, I first install 4 two-by-threes below the glass roof I have at the back of the garage : that will be a tire rack, and that much room saved!
Build in 3 minutes with what was laying around : 2 angle brackets, 3 old roller ball bearings, a threaded rod and a handful of bolts... And here you go, a nice kitchen roll holder running on ball-bearings! icone smiley laugh
Here's something I should have done 20 years ago, I keep using it all day long!!
Now for the workbench : I paint the feet/supports to be able to clean them later, as the raw wood stains very quickly in a workshop environment (and for the looks, let's be honest!). I give it two coats of a nice vintage "Eucalyptus" green, with a light sanding between coats. Sanding is mandatory on wood, as the fibers tend to raise after the first coat.
The shade of green is shamelessly copied from inspired by Jack Olsen's garage, of which I'm very fond of... If you don't already know it, you must give it a look on 12-GaugeGarage.com, and check the build details on GarageJournal.com (be careful with this forum, it's addicting and you quickly end up spending hours there!) icone smiley wink
Workbench again, that was a paint in the ass to make : a strip fitting nicely in between the workbench top and the rock stone wall behind. No more washers or nuts rolling all the way behind the bench! Looks like nothing, but the usage comfort is so much better now! On the down side, it took me almost half a day fitting that strip, using a rasp and a Dremel... icone smiley smile
The strip is made of 10mm thick MDF, covered with the edgebanding material that came with the bench top. It's then screwed on top of a 1"x1", itself glued/screwed to the back of the bench top. Neat!
I found on LeBonCoin again (40€, a bargain!) a nice all steel tool cart... Probably originally a medical cart, with that stainless top...
A bit of elbow grease and some paint to match the workbench, and it's perfect!
There, that's it, end of this upgrade, with a sore back and knees (all my respect to the guys whose job is tiling!)... Just to compare, here is how it looked like before...
OK, enough, now that it's nice and clean, let's put some grease and rust all over it! icone smiley laugh
Back to cruising speed and altitude at the workshop... Over'n'out!
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