Posté le 01/01/2017 at 08:15

Happy New Year 2017

Happy New Year
* 2017 *
Bonne Année
* 2017 *
Feliz Año Nuevo
* 2017 *
Buon Ano
* 2017 *
Gutes Neues Jahr
* 2017 *
OK, simply put, I for one will not miss 2016 a bit, it's been a tough year for many reasons. Good riddance!
In the other hand, 2017 will be a great year, full of changes, at least for me! (edit 20170720 : told ya! icone smiley laugh)

I wish you all a very Happy New Year, Health-Money-Happiness-Oh-But-You-Know-As-Long-As-You're-Healthy blah blah blah.

Be safe on the road!
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Posté le 06/11/2016 at 12:59

Elvira : Rebuilding the 36hp, episode 7 : intake manifold

episode 7 : intake manifold
Same issue as with the pushrods : the intake manifold is now too long to fit, since I've modified the cylinder heads... Gotta admit, I didn't see this one coming! icone smiley laugh
Since I did not want to modify my original 36hp manifold, I found a spare one on LeBonCoin...
vw pipe admission pied moulevw pipe admission pied moule
There we go, I cut using a hacksaw, and I remove the dreadful 6.4mm! I take advantage of the accessibility opportunity to clean the inside of the heater tube, which was in dire need of some TLC. Definitely easier to do this while it's opened like that! icone smiley wink
vw pipe admission pied moulevw pipe admission pied moulevw pipe admission pied moule
vw pipe admission pied moulevw pipe admission pied moulevw pipe admission pied moule
I MIG-weld the parts back together... Starting with the thinner, upper tube, the one that brings the air-fuel mixture to the heads.
vw pipe admission pied moulevw pipe admission pied moulevw pipe admission pied moule
To make sure to whole thing is air-tight (not easy to make air-tight MIG welds on the first try!), I close up the extremities using bit of a bike tire inner tube ; I use the valve from the same tube to put the whole thing under pressure (cue Queen/Bowie's music). This gives me a way to pin point any remaining holes, which I grind, weld close, and file again (why on earth did I wait so long to buy myself an electric file??)... On the fifth try, it is air tight. I still have one or two micro asperities, that will be closed by the layers of paint. Plus, while running, the manifold is under depression, not under 5 bars of pressure... icone smiley wink (the first one to talk about Jusdon gets a slap)
vw pipe admission pied moulevw pipe admission pied moule
vw pipe admission pied moulevw pipe admission pied moulevw pipe admission pied moule
I then weld back the second tube, the heater one (the exhaust gaz go through this one to heat up the manifold and prevent freezing). This one is easier to weld as it's much thicker, there's less risk to "go through" with the MIG. Therefore I can grind nice chamfers before I actually weld..
But I don't have access to the cut other side of the tube, next to the first tube I welded. I hoped that a nice clean weld on each side would do the trick, but when I wput it under pressure, it was leaking all over the place. So I got the Dremel out, and cut a window to get to the inside of this cut and weld it from there. I welded the window back in place, and this time it was air tight on the first try!
vw pipe admission pied moulevw pipe admission pied moule
vw pipe admission pied moulevw pipe admission pied moulevw pipe admission pied moule
Next step is as usual : sandblasting, 2 coats of rust-preventing primer, 3 coats of paint... And TADAAAAA!! Here's your 6.4mm shorter manifold! Yep, all of the above just for 6 f***ing millimeters! Dayum, you gotta love your compression ratio, right?! icone smiley laugh
vw pipe admission pied moulevw pipe admission pied moulevw pipe admission pied moule
vw pipe admission pied moule
Oh, and what about that fan shroud?......
Posté dans : 1959 Beetle
Affiché 104618 fois.
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Posté le 27/10/2016 at 22:24

ShamWerks turns 10 !

Ten years ago to the day, I was officially launching ShamWerks!

It was then a complete redesign of the previous version, namely "Da Sham's Webpage", after 8 years online. I already had an online presence since '96, but it was only a single Geocities page, not an actual site...

Along the last 10 years, it's over 180 articles that I have published on ShamWerks. Quite a slow pace compared to other blogs, but I always give priority to actual content over a quick picture without context ; and that takes time!
Speaking of which, the average length of my articles keeps getting bigger, it's now have tripled since '08! icone smiley wink

Recently, ShamWerks has evolved again to adapt to new medias : you can now browse the site from your mobile or tablet! The logo, too, got a bit of a dust-off... It was the perfect occasion to indulge myself to a small present to celebrate :

As usual, many thanks for your renewed fidelity, your messages, your help... Be safe on the road, see you soon!
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Posté le 25/10/2016 at 00:30

Elvira : Rebuilding the 36hp, episode 6 : Rocker arm geometry

episode 6 : Rocker arm geometry
Milling the cylinder heads compression ratio might have seemed like a good idea, but now my rocker arm geometry is way off! icone smiley laugh
Since I've milled 3.2mm into each head, the whole engine is now 6.4mm less large...

So, I gotta shorten them pushrods! (and that's just the beginning...)
On 36HP engines, contrary to more recent T1, the lifter and the pushrod are one single part...
I start by making myself an adjustable pushrod to find out the right length : I grab an old pushrod, cut it in the middle, throw at it a length of threaded rod and a couple of nuts, and I'm ready to rumble.
vw tige poussoir réglable pied moulévw tige poussoir réglable pied moulévw tige poussoir réglable pied moulé
Next, I install a dial gauge to measure the total lift ; I measure 7.76mm at the valve, which is relevant with what I obtained with my camshaft measuring bench (more on that later).
vw levee soupape comparateurvw levee soupape comparateur
I then turn the crank until I'm at half-lift (that is 3.88mm) : while in this position, the pressure screw on the rocker hs to be perfectly aligned with the valve stem.
Side note: some of you may argue that this shouldn't be measured at half-lift, but at the angle at which the valve has the maximum linear acceleration, as this is when you get the most mechanical constraints. From a mechanical stand point, that's right... But come on, this is just a 36HP, with chewing-gum valve spring, not a 2.4L with adamantium double valve springs running at 8000 RPM. The half-lift willl definitely but a good-enough approximation! icone smiley wink

Anyway, I adjust the length of my pushrod, tryin to get the lifter in the correct position... Try, remove the lifters, adjust the rod, put back the lifters... After the 3rd try I had the correct length : 299.2mm, while the pushrods are initially 302.3mm long. That's 3.1mm I gotte take off of each pushrod ; it makes sense, since I got my heads lower by 3.2mm on one side, and 3.15mm on the other.
vw culbuteur pied poulévw culbuteur pied poulévw culbuteur pied poulé
To shorten the pushrods, I first remove the lifter part : it's pretty easy, you jut need to put the rod in a vise (in between two pieces of wood not to scratch it), and give a firm tap with a bronze piece on the lifter.
vw tige poussoir pied moulévw tige poussoir pied moulé
The rods are then lathed down, using a W20 8mm collet.
vw tige poussoir pied moulévw tige poussoir pied moulé
I also remove short of a 1/10th on the diameter over 12mm of length, unless you can't put back the rod into the lifter (trust me, I bent 5 of them trying). I suppose they had a machine at the VW factory that would hold the whole length of the rod to prevent bending.

To make sure the pushrod isn't bent afterwards, I just put it back into the engin case, and make it turn between my fingers : if it's still straight, it will remain centered into the tube! Obviously, don't push it all the way into the case, unless the flat side on the lifter will prevent you from making it turn. Pour vérifier que la tige n'est pas pliée une fois le poussoir : on la remet dans le bloc et on la fait tourner du bout des doigts : si elle reste bien centrée dans le tube enveloppe, c'est qu'elle est droite! Evidemment, il ne faut pas la rentrer à fond, sinon le méplat sur le poussoir empêche de la faire tourner.

Historical side-note

The pushrods on 36HP engines may contain a piece of wood inside (made out of beech wood) : actually that's known to be the only piece of wood in a beetle! (well, if you ignore the convertible tops obviously)
My pushrods didn't have that piece of wood inside ; but I had another one (gift from Eric SIMON) which did contain that rod. But the actual role of this rod has never been really established...

(Edit 20161103 : Oops, forgot to add pictures right here!)
vw tige poussoir bois pied moulé
vw tige poussoir bois pied moulévw tige poussoir bois pied moulé
I've read different theories on the subject :
  • To make oil go up to the rockers thanks to capillarity effect : I don't buy it. No pressure, no flow, and the oil would actually drip back into the rod. Nope, not happening.
  • Pumping effect due to the wooden rod going up and down into the pushrod... I don't believe it either, there's an actual oil pump pushing behind, I don't see how that would work.
  • To dampen the vibrations and limit distribution noise by absorbing some of the harmonics : well, why not, could be.
  • To limit the oil volume in the push rod. Thus limiting the weight of the pushrod, making the whole distribution lighter. Plus, upon starting the engine, you'd have less volume to fill up, meaning faster pressure build up. That could make sense ; the flow is anyway limited by the hole diameter on the lifter and on the rocker side : no actual need for the pushrod to be filled up with oil.
Anyway, as time goes by, these wooden rods tend to hit each side inside the pushrod, end up taking its shape, with the risk of plugging the holes. Therefore, I rather not having them... icone smiley laugh

That's all folks, to be continued soon!
Posté dans : 1959 Beetle
Affiché 64340 fois.
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Posté le 26/09/2016 at 20:14

Krapo Bleu : Recaro and Gearbox linkage

Recaro & Gearbox linkage

My Golf is a 10 Millionth Edition (or "Champ" in France), and this limited edition had several very specific options at the time, one of them being the fabric used for the upholstery, a stripped blue that's on no other model (pictured below, from the period leaflet).
sièges golf 2 10 millionen champ
Well, actually, this was what I thought, for almost 20 years, until 2 years ago...
I then found out that in 1989, a limited edition of Jetta (the "GLI Helios" edition), of which only 1500 units were made, exclusively for the american market, had also received the very same fabric on their seats.

With a major difference though : it featured very desirable Recaro front seats!

Needless to say, I started hunting for a pair of those, but they're rare as hens teeth, and whenever an ad is published, it' always in the US, with prohibitive shipping costs.

Being my usual stubborn self, I kept looking, for almost 2 years...
Until march 2016, when an auction pops up on eBay UK, a stone's throw away from one of my in-laws! God Save the Queen! icone smiley laugh

I won't bother you with the details of the organisation set up to retrieve and ship the seats to southern France, but here they are, even nicer than I expected them to be!
(yeah, OK, spending that much time and energy for a pair of bloody seats, I know I have a problem, leave me alone!)
recaro helios sièges jetta GLI golf millionenrecaro helios sièges jetta GLI golf millionen
Here's the difference between the original "Sport" seats and the Recaro version :
recaro helios sièges jetta GLI golf millionenrecaro helios sièges jetta GLI golf millionenrecaro helios sièges jetta GLI golf millionen
But how the Hell these parts, exclusively made for the US market, made their way to Europe?
Actually, around a decade ago, a US soldier dispatched to an american air base in the UK, decided to import his Jetta Helios... He ended up selling the car there, but unfortunately it got wrecked and sold for parts. The seats got bought and stored for the next 9 years, until their owner decided to part with them. They got attacked by rodents in the meantime, but were neatly fixed by an upholstery shop, with a leatherette matching perfectly the original one.
You know what happened next... icone smiley smile

Let me tell you that there's probably not more than a handful of those in Europe! (I only found one German guy who installed a pair in his 10 Millionen)

I still needed the railings to install them... I found'em in Poland (damn, eBay is a hard drug), a complete G60 set with electric adjusting (too much? icone smiley laugh). Let's do it!
recaro rails siège  Golf G60 electriquerecaro rails siège  Golf G60 electrique
Th passenger seat had that part ripped... That's pretty common on Recaro seats, resulting in the bottom of the seat caving in. Fortunately, you can find a replacement on eBay UK, under the name of "webbing" or "diaphragm"...!
Not that easy to replace though, as it's very tight! My solution finally was to grab each hook with vise-grips, then use a clamp to pull the grips towards the edge of the frame.
recaro helios sièges jetta GLI golf millionenrecaro helios sièges jetta GLI golf millionenrecaro helios sièges jetta GLI golf millionen
And.... TADAAAAAAAA! icone smiley laugh
I still have to install a bit of wiring and a 20 amps fuse to use the electric adjustment thingy, but I can already enjoy the bloody things!
recaro helios sièges jetta GLI golf millionen
recaro helios sièges jetta GLI golf millionenrecaro helios sièges jetta GLI golf millionen
Dear Martin, thank you so much for your help securing the Glorious Seats!

Bonus : Gearbox linkage upgrade

Keeping on track with the improvement of both user experience and reliability, I decided to make a big update on the gear selector linkage.
The original bushings and links, made of plastic, end up wearing and breaking up (I think I changed mine at least 3 or 4 times). You then get a good 10cm end play on the gear stick, no matter if you've selected a gear or on neutral! You can still use the car if you're used to it, but forget about "race" driving. In the other hand, it's a pretty good anti-theft device! icone smiley laugh

Long story short, I ordered a "Smartshift 2" kit from USRallyTeam, which replaces all links with Unibal joints, and all bushings with Delrin-made ones (POM). No more end play!

I installed the kit on January 30th 2016, but it left a mark (literally) : as I was cutting off one of the joints with an angle grinder, I made a wrong move and sent the cutting disc into my left thumb. Cut down to the bone (got a nice gouge in it), tendon and nerves ripped... #ERsaturdayNight

Anyway, I spent a night at the hospital, but at least the kit is installed, no more end play in the stick, it feels great!

In the picture below, you can see the ugly original plastic joints and "ball", that usually wear off and break
Second picture is the kit form USRallyTeam : now we're talking! icone smiley laugh I don't have a decent picture of the kit installed in my car, as it's not easily accessible to get a pic, but you can have a look on this page if you wanna know how it's installed.
I'll spare you the picture of my post-surgery, Frankenstein-like thumb... icone smiley laugh
Smartshift 2 kit USRallyTeam Smartshift 2 kit USRallyTeam pouce operation blessure
As happy as I am with the result, and if I'd happily recommend that kit to others, it is not perfect either : the hardware is imperial threaded (doesn't make sense on a european car), I did not have the correct bolts (you need 2 left threaded, 2 right threaded,.. I only have 4 left threaded ones in the 2 kits I ordered), and the initial adjustment can be a bit tricky.
In short, not exactly a plug'n'play kit, but a great improvement nonetheless in the end. icone smiley wink
Posté dans : 1988 Golf MkII
Affiché 72205 fois.
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